Category Archives: Adventures

Challenge

Since I returned from Korea, I’ve done a fair bit of travelling. I’ve travelled by bus, by car, by plane. I’ve visited the Western Cape and KZN. I’ve spent time in Somerset West and Durban and made several trips to Grahamstown. Most of the travelling has been purposeful, if not always successful.

In a week or so, I’ll be on the move again. I’m off to Cape Town to see friends I haven’t seen in ages. I’m looking forward to it. A homecoming of a different kind. Many of these friends live on other continents. What strange, scattered lives we lead.

It has me thinking about travel and distance and challenge. Wednesday is Chuseok in Korea. As per tradition, tomorrow and Thursday are also holidays. Chuseok is probably the most important holiday in Korea. The whole country shuts down for three days. This includes shops, restaurants and – bizarrely – hotels. Everyone travels to ancestral family homes for traditional rituals of respect for elders and ancestors, family celebrations and the sorts of special foods generally associated with Autumn harvest festivals.

Last year Chuseok was in October (the date is based on the lunar calendar). I had been in Korea for 3 months and was just starting to settle down. Some friends, whose trip to the Philippines had fallen through, decided to go paragliding. On the spur of the moment, I joined them. In all the excitement of a year in a foreign country, I sometimes forget that one of the things I did was to face down my fear of heights, high-risk activities and general adrenaline-related things and jump (well, run) off the side of a mountain. It was an amazing, exhilarating, mind-blowing experience.

And yet, ultimately, it was just one day, one experience. An experience completely unique to me. Shared, on the day, with two friends. Shared, through writing and images with many others. But ultimately, an experience and a memory affecting only me. Conrad was right: “we live, as we dream – alone”.

This trip, the rekindling of old friendships, rehashing old memories, will be great, but I start to feel that there should be something more, that I should be doing more with the travel and experiences. I begin to feel restless. When was the last time I did something to match the sweet, terrifying, life-affirming challenge of running off the side of a mountain?

Durban. September. Rain.

It’s raining in Durban. It’s September, of course it’s raining in Durban. This is my lasting memory of the town. Durban, which for everyone else is summer holidays and December sunshine, is September rain to me. Not that I mind. September rain in Durban is inextricably tangled in my mind with the reason for all of those visits – huge, unwieldy, intense events.

We fly into King Shaka International Airport. This is the new airport. What it lacks in convenient proximity (it’s about 40 minutes from town), it makes up for in atmosphere and practical design. It feels a lot like OR Tambo, but set in beautiful, rolling hills of sugar cane. We travel into town and check into the hotel. It occurs to me that it’s an awfully long time since I spent time in a South African hotel. Once upon a time, hotel rooms were as familiar to me as my own bedroom. Somehow I have travelled back to a point where hotels are a novel experience.

I won’t see much of the inside of the hotel this time around. Not unlike the last time around. Then, as now, I was here for an event. I have such clear memories from that time. I think the memories from those few weeks are clearer than any others from that phase of my life. It is amazing what the intensity of an event can do to my sense of time and space. I learnt so much. The learning curve was steep and I spent a lot of time feeling terrified and insecure. I think the confidence and strength I learnt during that event carried me through the next few years. So reassuring to be back in that eventing space, in Durban in September in the rain, all these years later.

We visit the same places: Suncoast for dinner, Wilson’s Wharf for drinks. Travelling back to the airport on the last day, past silver-sun-washed sea and the new Durban stadium, I am struck by the strange synchronicity of it all. After all these years and all I have seen, it is still Durban in September in the rain that reminds me what I’m capable of and pushes me to think seriously about the next step, the next option and all I’ve learnt from the amazing people I’ve worked with in this town.

Cape Town fake day

On Tuesday I got up early and headed to the station. I had planned to take the Premium Express train – a “business-class” train that runs between Strand and Cape Town each week-day, complete with complimentary coffee, tea, newspapers and SAPS-on-board. Sadly, it appears to be impossible to buy a single-journey/one-day ticket for this train.

So I found myself buying a perfectly ordinary Metro-plus return ticket on a perfectly ordinary (beautiful) Tuesday morning. I found a comfortable bench on the platform and waited. Other passengers drifted in and found their own benches. Some read books. Some stared into the distance. A community-safety volunteer in reflective vest wandered along the platform. A cleaning-lady was sweeping. The place was close to spotlessly clean already. She picked up a stray sweet paper. A delivery-man arrived with some pies and they chatted about her recent trip to the Transkei. It was so peaceful.

The train arrived and I climbed (well, stepped) aboard. I had a whole carriage to myself for a while, but then one or two others joined me. The trip was quiet and beautiful. I sat at the window and looked out at a beautiful world. Mountains rose in the distance. A dam sparkled in the morning sun. Arum lilies grew beside of the railway line, white on green.

We passed settlements – suburbs? townships? – where houses were being built and extensions done and walls painted. Everywhere building, growing, developing. But pretty rather than commercial. Attractive. Each house with a garden, some just lawn, some with beautiful flowers. Hibiscus flowered next to jasmine. It was so good to see built-up areas with space and light and gardens.

As we came into Cape Town, the mountain rose huge and magnificent above the city bowl. My sister has this concept of ‘fake days’ – days that are so beautiful if they were pictures they’d be rejected because they’d be unrealistic. This was a ‘fake day’ in Cape Town. Seriously, no one city should be allowed to be that pretty. It was exquisite.

I met a friend at the station. They’ve just redone Cape Town station. It’s huge and open with shiny tiles and brand new, easy-to-read signage. It looks good. Most South Africans – or at least those born into or who have now reached the ‘class’ where they can mortgage their lives to buy a car – never use public transport. It makes me a little sad because they miss out on so much. When you’re in a car, even if you’re not driving, you miss out simply because roads tend to have more houses beside them than railway tracks. I had a moment of wondering what would get South Africans back onto public transport. The whole experience from beginning to end was great for me.

Friend and I wandered off into Cape Town. We started at a super sandwich place and then took a wonderful, gentle stroll. We went down to the Artscape to look at the Zebras. The Zebras are part of an exhibition around the theme “not all is black and white”. They’re fascinating and add yet another reason to visit Cape Town city centre.

Later, after various stops around the city, we made our way to Company Gardens. The day was still ridiculously beautiful. The sun streamed into the lush, green gardens as we wandered along the shady paths and squirrels scuttled up trees and flocks of pigeons took off in a flutter of wings. Some seagulls have moved into the gardens and as we watched, muscled their way in on the crumbs people were throwing to the pigeons. I felt a little sorry for the pigeons. The seagulls, in turn, were displaced by a set of amorous Egyptian geese. I was lovely to sit in these quiet, beautiful gardens with the lunchtime crowds settled on the grass enjoying the beautiful weather.

Later, after that friend headed off back to work, I caught a cab to the Waterfront. I’d forgotten how much I enjoy the Waterfront. Ultimately, a mall is a mall but after a long stint in a country that doesn’t really have malls in the sense that we do, it’s pleasant and relaxing and just a little luxurious to wander around an upmarket mall full of brand-name stores, the gorgeously rich scents of chocolate and coffee, the glimmer of artificial light off perfectly polished tiles and freshly painted signs and walls. If feels safe, secure and familiar. I had coffee with a friend at a little chocolatier and coffee shop that served the most delicious chocolate eclairs. It was a delightful place. The whole mall was fairly empty on a random Tuesday afternoon. Here I think it was just us and perhaps one other table. We drank coffee with sugar lumps. Luxury comes in many forms; good coffee, delicious sweets and delightful conversation is one of my favourites.

Back at the station, I found my platform, thanks to the friendly and efficient info desk, and hopped onto my train. I travelled through the growing dusk towards Strand Station. There were far more people on the train this time – my carriage was full. It was still beautiful. I got back before dark and headed home to change before going off to have dinner with two more friends.

A beautiful day of sunshine in stupidly pretty city and lots of wonderful time with friends.