Category Archives: Ideas

Places Remembered/Places Revisited

Rosebank is quiet in the mornings. The sun sparkles off the little fountains and waiters stand ready outside the coffee shop across the way. I sip my coffee. It is restful.

When I first left university, many years ago, I moved to Johannesburg. At the time, I lived in a place called Emerentia but I worked, that first year, in Rosebank. I loved Rosebank. Stepping off the bus and popping into the bakery for a to-die-for pastry or picking up a sandwich on the way to the office, on the way through through the shopping centre.

I remember loving the idea of being able to stop for coffee at a coffee shop on the way to work. I had come from a small town and lived for four years in another small town while studying. There was something sophisticated and “big city” about the idea of stopping on the way to work,to have a quick coffee and read the paper. Not that it happened much – that year was so busy that Rosebank, for the most part, passed me by.

Something stuck though. Rosebank stayed one of my favourite places in Joburg. Through the years and the occasional visits – made livable by amazing friends –  and long after the people I knew and the organisation I had worked for had moved on, it stayed a favourite place. Perhaps it was the buzz, the constant energy of people. Perhaps it was the many restaurants and coffee shops. Perhaps it was the tree-lined streets and the carpet of jacaranda flowers in the summer.

A few weeks ago, I moved back to Joburg. Despite the visits in the interim, this is the first time I’m really back. I could have lived anywhere, and in the chaos of the move (made more chaotic by moving when all the estate agents were closed for the summer), I seemed destined to find a far-away place. But I was fairly determined. Not that that would have been a terribly hardship, but I’d seen a glimpse of a different life, a life of restaurants and movies and meeting people outside of work and, if at all possible, I was set on it.

So much of my life will, if I get my way, be hard. Team houses in far away places, tough assignments that include mandatory counselling, huge risks with little tangible reward. This seems, in some ways, a pre-emptive respite. So I feel that I need to enjoy it as that. This is my counter-point to a future Somaliland or South Sudan or DRC.

I guess that was my justification – that and the sense that I need this after my long years in the middle of nowhere – for pushing the estate agent to get what I wanted. I succeeded, as it happens. In just over a week after arriving in Joburg, I moved into a flat in Rosebank. Not just in Rosebank but within easy (even at night) walking distance of the Mall. Suddenly going out for my favourite pizza or a movie or seeing friends is within easy reach.

Perhaps it is the newness of it all but it feels like such a luxury. I feel like I have somehow arrived. To step out of my building on a beautiful summer’s morning, and walk the few steps to the mall, on the way to the train (in other countries it would be an underground), makes me feel so happy. It makes me happy. I love the ease of it all. I love being able to trust the public transport system. I love the train system. I love the sunlight on the inner-city buildings in the mornings.

Most of all, I love being able to stop for a really good coffee, and sit, watching the people and the morning and the way the sun glitters off the fountains, on my way to work.  There is something peaceful about this life. I’m glad I’ve finally found the time, and the place, to make it happen. I wonder if, the last time around, I ever saw this future. I wonder because I have the time and the happy, safe space to wonder. And I wonder, from my safe space, over a morning coffee, what adventure will come after.

The Familiarity of an Unfamiliar Language

I keep catching myself. I’ll be sitting at a table, idly watching the conversation move back and forth, or sitting quietly on a train, zoned out but hearing the words drift by. Suddenly, it occurs to me that the words I’m listening to, the conversation I’m following, isn’t in English.

Perhaps I am used to the extreme opposite when I travel. The complete strangeness of Hangeul (Korean) or Swahili/Shona/Bemba, distant relatives of languages I know a little, with just a few common words. It is disconcerting to find myself in a country where the foreign language is familiar. I don’t speak Dutch by any stretch. I didn’t realise how much I would understand.

It comes in handy. Yesterday, I got to Rotterdam and headed out to take the tram, as per instructions sent by the hostel. There was a schedule posted. The tram I was waiting for was supposed to arrive every 10 minutes. But the sign with the expected times of the trams didn’t show it (yes, there are signs indicating how long you’ll wait, just in case the timetables are ever so slightly off – I imagine there will shortly be a post which is an ode to the awesomeness of Dutch public transport).

After waiting a while, starting at the screen, it occurred to me that I was reading the text scrolling across the bottom. The text indicating that the tram I was anticipating taking was not running on this particular day from this stop. Mentally thanking every Afrikaans teacher I’ve ever had, I headed off to the metro instead, instead of waiting around for ages and ages in the cold.

Inside the metro station, I looked around and couldn’t see a ticket desk with a human. I needed a ticket and there were ticket machines. Except there weren’t, because even the name of the machines was in Dutch. I picked up a ticket and only as I was leaving realised there was an option on the first page to use English instead (when I picked this, out of curiosity, it turned out to be English only to the first page, FYI, for anyone who doesn’t read Afrikaans).

It happened again this morning: I was reading a bilingual brochure for an attraction I wanted to visit and accidentally found myself reading the Dutch instead of the English, which turned out to be more detailed and more accurate.

Usually, I travel with a guidebook. This trip was so last-minute, so unplanned that I didn’t pick one up. Instead, I’m relying on maps and brochures picked up from information desks and hostels. And overwhelmingly in Dutch. Understanding a little makes travel easier. If I can’t immediately understand things, I find I can figure them out. I’m more confident. I can’t speak the language (I don’t generally speak Afrikaans either – just read and understand) but I can generally understand most of it.

There is something else. It’s something I struggle to explain – it’s comfortingly familiar. Perhaps it is the music of the language that is similar to Afrikaans. The voices of teenagers laughing on the square. The quiet conversation of an elderly couple on a bus. Even the people, the “types” feel predictably familiar.

Beyond the familiarity of the Dutch itself, there is a vocabulary of place that is familiar here. More than familiar – it represents a world I learned as a child. It struck me yesterday as I sat on the train from Amsterdam to Rotterdam. Outside the window, along a canal, were houseboats. There was a story, a long time ago, about a mole and a rat and a toad. Was it The Wind in the Willows? In it, there is a river or a canal and a houseboat. The pictures looked like these houses. On a canal. Somewhere in my head, I have held, all these years, a picture of a houseboat and a canal that didn’t match any of the houseboats or bodies of water I would ever see. It existed for me nowhere but the books I read as a child. Yet here it was. I made a note to complement the classics with African books for all the children in my circles and wondered how many other things there are in my mythology of the world that have no substance beyond imagination (for me) because they have never existed in my physical reality.

Like woods. “The woods are lovely, dark and deep…” “If you go down to the woods today…” “They shut the road through the woods seventy years ago…” I could go on and on. There were woods in Narnia, possibly the central book series of my childhood. There were woods in all the Enid Blyton books. There were no woods in South Africa. I’ve seen montane forests with hundred-year-old yellowwoods. I’ve visited the tropical rain-forests of the Congo. I had never walked in the woods until today.

It shouldn’t be possible for language to be both fragile and robust. Over the years other concepts had become attached to those words for me – forests for “woods” and yachts for “houseboats”. But language bounces back. The actual thing fits so much better that it quickly replaces the substituted concept. And those things – the real world things to which words should be anchored – make it possible for reality to translate from the unfamiliarity of Dutch to the gentle, safe familiarity of Afrikaans and, eventually, English.

Morning Through A Mosquito Net

We woke up to the sound of drumming. We learned later it was a church group practicing. It was early. I remember so clearly. The taste of the air. The sounds. The way the light fell. The dusty ground. The bucket showers. Perhaps it was the fear, the excitement. Every sense heightened.

 

Kisenyi morning

 

It’s been an exhausting month. Not a good month. Too much work. Too many deadlines. Not enough time to breathe. Not enough people. My kind of people. But this morning I opened my flickr account and it brought up this photograph.

 

Kisenyi morning 2

 

I have friends who have long, rambling, sometimes heated discussions about why. One of the regular topics is travel. Why travel? What is it for? What urge drives the wanderings of 21st century nomads and why should we travel? There are lots of reasons. Some days I think I travel to remember. A perfect autumn day cycling with friends in Gyeongju, South Korea. Anapji Pond, a 7th century Asian pleasure garden. Fierce summer thunderstorms in Windhoek and Gaborone. The smell of dark fir trees on a chilled morning in the dry season in Eldoret, Kenya. Morning through a mosquito net in the small lakeside town of Kisenyi, DRC.

Memories of travel are a precious reminder that there is more than ordinary. It’s October. The year is drawing to a close. Adverts are beginning to tend towards Christmas. Memories of travel hover. An incentive, a reminder to carve the time out of a stressful, over-stretched, overworked month to make plans, to move on, towards something more than ordinary.

 

Kisenyi 3   kisenyi 4

 

Kisenyi is a beautiful small town on the shores of Lake Albert in the DRC. If you ever have the chance to travel in that part of the world, visit. Do it quickly, before the oil-companies lay waste to this beautiful corner of Africa in their quest to get at the oil that lies beneath the lake.