Category Archives: Ideas

The movement of people

I watched a debate recently about colonialism and reparations, specifically Arab colonialism in Africa. Combined with my recent brushes with the colonial history of Namibia, it got me thinking about the movement of people.

Did you know, for example, that the first inhabitants of Madagascar were probably Austronesians who sailed on canoes from South East Asia. The malagasy language apparently shares 90% of its basic vocabulary with the Ma’anyan language from southern Borneo.

Zanzibar fell, in 1698, to the Sultanate of Oman (who displaced the Portugese) and became an important part of the Omani empire, from which several areas of East Africa were controlled. In the 19th century, the then Sultan of Oman decided to make Zanzibar his permanent residence (capital?) and built lavish palaces and gardens there. For a while, Zanzibar was the capital of Oman.

The Andaman Islands between the Indian sub-continent and Thailand/Indonesia are populated in part by the Jarawa tribe who, it turns out (confirmed by DNA testing) are direct descendants of North Kenyan/South Ethiopian early man.

People have always travelled to and settled in new places. It is only in the last century, as our political correctness has shut down the option of conquest (at least for Western nations) and our population growth has driven us to claim whole countries of land as our own, for fear that we will be left with nowhere to go, that this kind of travel and movement has become less acceptable.

But I am still intrigued by nomadic groups, not because their lifestyle is somehow romantic and desirable – as modernity isolates them more and more, they often live in abject poverty – but because they are the antithesis of the sedentary lifestyles so many modern humans live. We have become strangely obsessed with a settled place. “Where are you from?”, “Where do you live?”, “What is your address?” But at least in socio-economically well-off circles, people’s lives exist largely on-line. Sending letters in the post is almost an anachronism but an address remain a crucial part of identity.

I have lived in Korea, I’ve lived in South Africa’s two biggest cities, I’ve lived in small university and farming towns. I’m currently in the Eastern Cape but the office I work for is in Cape Town. It is a little like the time I lived in Cape Town but my office and team were in Joburg. Or those crazy three months I commuted between Stutterheim and Pretoria. And I’d like to do it on a larger scale. I’d like to spend more time travelling across borders, particularly in Southern Africa. I want this whole region, rather than just one country, to become ‘home’.

In the back of my mind a whimsical idea is forming: what would it be like (and would it even be possible) to live without a fixed address for one year?

The other side of the story

Sometimes travel teaches you more about yourself than about the places you visit. A Belgian backpacker I met mentioned that he had never really studied Belgian colonial history at school but since coming to Africa, he’d discovered that everyone else seemed to be aware of Belgium’s role in the Congo and Rwanda. I’d been thinking something similar for the previous few days. At no point in all my years studying history at school and university did anyone ever say that we (South Africa) illegally occupied then-South West Africa for nearly 50 years.
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Challenge

Since I returned from Korea, I’ve done a fair bit of travelling. I’ve travelled by bus, by car, by plane. I’ve visited the Western Cape and KZN. I’ve spent time in Somerset West and Durban and made several trips to Grahamstown. Most of the travelling has been purposeful, if not always successful.

In a week or so, I’ll be on the move again. I’m off to Cape Town to see friends I haven’t seen in ages. I’m looking forward to it. A homecoming of a different kind. Many of these friends live on other continents. What strange, scattered lives we lead.

It has me thinking about travel and distance and challenge. Wednesday is Chuseok in Korea. As per tradition, tomorrow and Thursday are also holidays. Chuseok is probably the most important holiday in Korea. The whole country shuts down for three days. This includes shops, restaurants and – bizarrely – hotels. Everyone travels to ancestral family homes for traditional rituals of respect for elders and ancestors, family celebrations and the sorts of special foods generally associated with Autumn harvest festivals.

Last year Chuseok was in October (the date is based on the lunar calendar). I had been in Korea for 3 months and was just starting to settle down. Some friends, whose trip to the Philippines had fallen through, decided to go paragliding. On the spur of the moment, I joined them. In all the excitement of a year in a foreign country, I sometimes forget that one of the things I did was to face down my fear of heights, high-risk activities and general adrenaline-related things and jump (well, run) off the side of a mountain. It was an amazing, exhilarating, mind-blowing experience.

And yet, ultimately, it was just one day, one experience. An experience completely unique to me. Shared, on the day, with two friends. Shared, through writing and images with many others. But ultimately, an experience and a memory affecting only me. Conrad was right: “we live, as we dream – alone”.

This trip, the rekindling of old friendships, rehashing old memories, will be great, but I start to feel that there should be something more, that I should be doing more with the travel and experiences. I begin to feel restless. When was the last time I did something to match the sweet, terrifying, life-affirming challenge of running off the side of a mountain?