Monthly Archives: November 2009

Tchaikovsky and Noraebang (but not at the same time)

It seemed appropriate that a week that began with Puccini should end with Tchaikovsky. I have decided, quite cheerfully I must add, that if it’s too cold to explore outdoors, the Arts will be my substitute source of wonder, so after a brunch opera on Monday, I spent Saturday night at the ballet.

Ballet has not always been a part of my life. I wasn’t one of those little girls who spends all her childhood years dreaming of tutus and pirouettes. I’ve been involved in dance in one form or another for years but it wasn’t until I became a regular Festino that I discovered the joy of ballet. There is a ballet every year at Fest, usually performed by the Cape Town City Ballet accompanied by one of the Johannesburg Orchestras, although they have on occasion had the South African Ballet Theatre and the Cape Philharmonic. Over the years, I’ve seen various ballets, including Coppelia, Don Quixote, The Nutcracker and, my favourite, Carmen.

This is the first time I have seem ballet outside of South Africa, so I was quite excited. I was also very nearly late. I somehow got it into my head at some point during the week that this was a 7:30pm ballet instead of a 7pm start and it only occurred to me to check at about 6:15pm on Saturday, while sitting calmly sewing a missing button back onto my coat. In a panic, I finished getting ready, rushed down the hill, drew money and grabbed a cab. Luckily, the venue, the Suseong Artpia, is literally 10 minutes from my house, so I was in time to get a ticket and find my seat before the start of the show. Tickets ranged from 20000 won (for seats in the balcony) to 40000 won (for the main block of seats right in front of the stage). I picked the middle-ground of a 30000 won ticket (R190), thereby avoiding at least some of the many, many children, while also avoiding being close enough to see the dancers sweat.

Suseong Artpia is another great Daegu venue. The main auditorium, the Yongi Hall, seats nearly 1000 people (including the large 2nd floor balcony) and has comfortable seats, well set so that everyone can see the stage and lovely, lovely acoustics. When I first took my seat, I wasn’t sure if they would be using a live orchestra. Most of the information for these shows is in Korean so it’s always a bit of a guessing game. Then I saw the top of a harp appear and heard them tuning up and was glad. Ballet is always better with live music.

This ballet was performed by the Seoul Ballet Theatre, with original choreography by James Jeon. The first impression I got was of a large production. As we waited for everyone to settled and the ushers rushed around with extra cushions for small children, I had a chance to notice that even the front of the stage was part of the set, with large nutcracker figures stretching from the stage to the ceiling on either side and the clock face hanging in the middle at the top. The curtains weren’t closed. Instead a screen showed a village with snowflakes falling (lights) and the words ‘Merry Christmas’ in lights across the middle of the screen. I felt the tingly joy of anticipation and magic.

The Nutcracker opens with families of mothers and fathers and children arriving at a Christmas Party in all their winter finery. From the first moment, with the orchestra sweeping the audience up in waves of beautiful music, the dancers carried us into a magical world with perfect characterisation and attention to detail. In some performances of the Nutcracker, the mysterious godfather, Herr Drosselmeyer, plays quite a small role. In this one, he was the ringmaster of the show and right from the start, it was he who led the audience into the ballroom, ‘commanding’ the screens to open and village scene to fade away. The first scene of The Nutcracker is lovely, with the children playing and the parents dancing. This one was particularly special because it seemed so natural – with almost equal attention to the acting/characterisation and dancing. I was struck right from the start by the exquisite performance and very strong dancing of the male lead dancing Clara’s father. The scene also had several delightfully authentic Korean touches – like the fact that everyone arriving and leaving would bow to each other and the important part played by the grandparents in the scene. It’s also great to see choreography that’s not scared to introduce little touches of modernity and humour. The battle between the mouse-king and the nutcracker included some fairly modern hip-hop-style moves from the mice, and when two of them were injured in the battle, some of the other mice come in with a huge syringe to revive them.

At the end of the first scene, Herr Drosselmeyer emerged from inside a large grandfather clock and, while Clara watched, made the Christmas tree grow to enormous size and transformed the nutcracker into a prince, all shown on stage with full props and sets. The set and lighting design, as well as the changes, were dramatic and life-sized, requiring very little work from the audiences’ imaginations. I couldn’t helping thinking that this must have been a really expensive production to put together. Not that I was complaining – it was perfectly executed and created layers and layers of magic.

The only bit of the choreography that I didn’t particularly enjoy was the dancing of the snowflakes in the second scene. It took me a while to figure out what I didn’t like about it but I think it’s because the dancing was too frenetic – there was a lot of focus on arm movements and it was a little mechanical, losing some of the gracefulness. I was soon distracted, however, by the children’s choir. It’s unusual, except in very large and expensive productions, to actually see the children’s choir included in the Nutcracker but it is a delightful part of the original score and definitely adds to the ballet.

Act II of the Nutcracker, with the sweets dancing dances from different countries, never fails to delight. This production included the traditional Arabian and Spanish dancers, as well as the Chinese and Russian but also included some traditional Korean dancers. All the dancers were good but some of the touches and some of the choreography raised this part of the ballet above the norm. The Chinese dancers, for example, were accompanied by the cutest, funniest little silver dragon who completely distracted the audience with its antics. The Russian dancers, perhaps because Korea is so much closer to Russia and the culture is therefore more familiar, seemed so incredibly happy and so authentic. The Korean dancers were the highlight for many of the audience and were fascinating to watch. The woman danced with an hour-glass-shaped drum that she carried over her shoulder and beat and used to swing herself around in the turns. More spectacular was a male dancer wearing the hat topped with what must have been a 6-foot long white streamer, from the Korean traditional farmer’s dance, which he swirled around as he jumped and danced with acrobatic movements across the stage. It really added a unique and impressive aspect to this part of the show. The dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy and the Waltz of the Flowers were exquisite. There was none of the awkwardness of the snowflake dance. Instead, we were whirled away in a beautiful, flowing, elegant display of classical ballet. The prince danced, too, and was perhaps one of the most impressive dancers there. His leaps were perfectly executed, his movements both athletic and elegant and he was incredibly light on his feet. I was almost a little sad, when Her Drosselmeyer reappeared and transformed the magical world back into the ordinariness of Clara’s bedroom and she woke with her beloved Nutcracker.

The only negative about the show for me was the fact that, not surprisingly, so many parents had brought their young children and a few of them became restless during the third act. Still, even children chattering a little couldn’t really detract from this magical performance. The audience didn’t stand up – perhaps standing ovations are not done here – but the performers received three curtain calls and it was obvious that everyone was enchanted. Including me. I left humming ‘O come all ye faithful’, which they played as the audience was filing out, and full of the joy and magic of ballet and Christmas. In terms of the dancing, although I loved almost all of it, I was particularly impressed with the male leads. Perhaps just because there aren’t very many strong male dancers in South African ballet, these men blew me away. Clara’s father (danced, I think by Jeong Woon Sik) and the Prince (Kim Sung Hun – although both those names may be wrong) were both excellent.

I had originally tried to get a group together to go to the show but they all had a thanksgiving dinner planned. I’m so glad I went on my own anyway. It was a delightful. I joined some of my friends afterwards, though, and we ended up sampling a very different kind of Korean entertainment. Since I arrived here, I’ve been meaning to go to a Noraebang – a Korean karaoke room. Last night I went with three friends to try one out.

The others had all done this before but I was a Noraebang novice. This is a little different to the karaoke I’m used to at home. Instead of singing in front of a large (and not very attentive) audience in a crowded bar, each group gets a private room. In the room are comfortable couches arranged around a table and TV. On the table are a couple of books with lists of songs and a control console which you use to choose your song, as well as a tamborine. The range of songs is bizarre but there are always some fun ones. Once you’re chosen your song, one or two people pick up the mics and sing their hearts out. Not that you really hear a lot of what they’re singing – volume is permanently turned up rather high and the mics have some sort of built in reverb, so everyone sounds a little like a bad K-pop star. But that’s probably part of the fun. The four of us had a great time. We sang all sorts of things, from Moulin Rouge and Bon Jovi to Mariah Carey and Neil Diamond. In honour of the season, we also included a couple of Christmas numbers. We had a particularly funny moment when Christina found something called ‘The Christmas Song’ by Nat King Cole and we all watched as she put it on, not sure what to expect and then all jumped up at the same time and started singing at the tops of our voices as the words ‘Chestnuts roasting on an open fire’ appeared on the screen. Time really does fly when you’re having fun. After an hour and a half we didn’t even notice passing, we finished off with the almost obligatory ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’. We said goodnight and I headed home to dream sweet dreams of chestnuts, princes, nutcrackers and sugar plum fairies.

Tchaikovsky and a Noraebang (but not at the same time)

It seemed appropriate that a week that began with Puccini should end with Tchaikovsky. I have decided, quite happily I must add, that if it’s too cold to explore outdoors, the arts will be my substitute source of moments of wonder, so after a brunch opera on Monday, I spent Saturday night at the ballet.

Ballet has not always been a part of my life. I wasn’t one of those little girls who spends all her childhood years dreaming of tutus and pirouettes. I’ve been involved in dance in one form or another for years but it wasn’t until I became a regular Festino that I discovered the joy of ballet. There is a full ballet every year at Fest, usually performed by the Cape Town Ballet Company accompanied by one of the Johannesburg Orchestras, although they have on occasion had the South African Ballet Theatre and the Cape Philharmonic. Over the years, I’ve seen various ballets, including Coppelia, Don Quixote, The Nutcracker and, my favourite, Carmen.

This is the first time I have seem ballet outside of South Africa, so I was quite excited. I was also very nearly late. I somehow got it into my head at some point during the week that this was a 7:30pm ballet instead of a 7pm start and it only occurred to me to check at about 6:15pm on Saturday, while sitting calmly sewing a missing button back onto my coat. In a panic, I finished getting ready, rushed down the hill, drew money and grabbed a cab. Luckily, the venue, the Suseong Artpia, is literally 10 minutes from my house, so I was (just) in time to get a ticket and be seated before the start of the show. Tickets ranged from 20000 won (for seats in the balcony) to 40000 won (for the main block of seats right in front of the stage). I picked the middle-ground of a 30000 won ticket (R190), thereby avoiding at least some of the many, many children and also avoiding being close enough to see the dancers sweat.

Suseong Artpia is another great venue. The main auditorium, the Yongi Hall, seats nearly 1000 people (including the large 2nd floor balcony) and has lovely, lovely acoustics. When I first took my seat, I wasn’t sure if they would be using a live orchestra. Most of the information for these shows is in Korean so it’s always a bit of a guessing game. Then I saw the top of a harp appear and heard them tuning up and was glad. Ballet is always better with live music.

This ballet was performed by the Seoul Ballet Theatre, with original choreography by James Jeon. The first impression I got was of a large production. As we waited for everyone to settled and the ushers rushed around with extra cushions for small children, I had a chance to notice that even the front of the stage was part of the set, with large nutcracker figures stretching from the stage to the ceiling on either side and the clock face hanging in the middle at the top. The curtains weren’t closed. Instead a screen showed a village with snowflakes falling (lights) and the words ‘Merry Christmas’ in lights across the middle of the screen. I felt the tingly joy of anticipation and magic.

The Nutcracker opens with families of mothers and fathers and children arriving at a Christmas Party in all their winter finery. From the first moment, with the orchestra sweeping the audience up in waves of beautiful music, the dancers carried us into a magical world with perfect characterisation and attention to detail. In some performances of the Nutcracker, the mysterious godfather of Clara and Fritz, Herr Drosselmeyer, plays quite a small role. In this one, he was the ringmaster of the show and right from the start, it was he who led the audience into the ballroom, by ‘commanding’ the screens to open and village scene to fade away. The first scene of The Nutcracker is always lovely, with the children playing and the parents dancing. This one was particularly special because it seemed so natural – with almost equal attention to the acting/characterisation and dancing. I was struck right from the start by the exquisite performance and very strong dancing of the male lead dancing Clara’s father. The scene also had several delightfully authentic Korean touches – like the fact that everyone arriving and leaving would bow to each other and the important part played by the grandparents in the scene. It’s also great to see choreography which is not scared to introduce little touches of modernity and humour. The battle between the mouse-king and the nutcracker included some fairly modern hip-hop-style moves from the mice, and when two of them were injured in the battle, some of the other mice come in with a huge syringe to revive them.

At the end of the first scene, Herr Drosselmeyer emerged from inside a large grandfather clock and, while Clara watched, made the Christmas tree grow to enormous size and transformed the nutcracker into a prince, all shown on stage with full props and sets. The set and lighting design, as well as the changes, were dramatic and life-sized, requiring very little work from the audiences’ imaginations. I couldn’t helping thinking that this must have been a really expensive production to put together. Not that I was complaining – it was perfectly executed and created layers and layers of magic.

The only bit of the choreography that I didn’t particularly enjoy was the dancing of the snowflakes in the second scene. It took me a while to figure out what I didn’t like about it but I think it’s because the dancing was too frenetic – there was a lot of focus on arm movements and a little mechanical, losing some of the gracefulness. I was soon distracted, however, by the children’s choir. It’s unusual, except in very large and expensive productions, to actually see the children’s choir included in the Nutcracker but it is a delightful part of the original score and definitely adds to the ballet.

Act II of the Nutcracker, with the sweets dancing dances from different countries, never fails to delight. This production included the traditional Arabian and Spanish dancers, as well as the Chinese and Russian but also included some traditional Korean dancers. All the dancers were good but some of the touches and some of the choreography raised this part of the ballet above the norm. The Chinese dancers, for example, were accompanied by the cutest, funniest little silver dragon who completely distracted the audience with it’s antics. The Russian dancers, perhaps because Korea is so much closer to Russia and the culture is therefore more familiar, seemed so incredibly happy and so authentic. The Korean dancers were the highlight for many of the audience and were fascinating to watch. The woman danced with an hour-glass-shaped drum that she carried over her shoulder and beat and used to swing herself around in the turns. More spectacular was a male dancer wearing the black hat topped with what must have been a 6-foot long white streamer, from the Korean traditional farmer’s dance, which he swirled around as he jumped and danced with acrobatic movements across the stage. It really added a unique and impressive aspect to this part of the show. The dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy and the Waltz of the Flowers were exquisite. There was none of the awkwardness of the snowflake dance. Instead, we were whirled away in a beautiful, flowing, elegant display of classical ballet. The prince danced, too, and was perhaps one of the most impressive dancers there. His leaps were perfectly executed, his movements both athletic and elegant and he was incredibly light on his feet. I was almost a little sad, when Her Drosselmeyer reappeared and transformed the magical world back into the ordinariness of Clara’s bedroom and she woke with her beloved Nutcracker.

The only negative about the show for me was the fact that, not surprisingly, so many parents had brought their children and a few of them became restless during the third act. Still, even children chattering a little couldn’t really detract from this magical performance. The audience didn’t stand up – perhaps standing ovations are not done here – but the performers received three curtain calls and it was obvious that everyone was enchanted. Including me. I left humming ‘O come all ye faithful’, which they played as the audience was filing out, and full of the joy and magic of ballet and Christmas. In terms of the dancing, although I loved almost all of it, I was particularly impressed with the male leads. Perhaps just because there aren’t very many strong male dancers in South African ballet, these men blew me away. Clara’s father (danced, I think by Jeong Woon Sik) and the Prince (Kim Sung Hun – although both those names may be wrong) were both excellent.

I had originally tried to get a group together to go to the show but they all had a thanksgiving dinner planned. I’m so glad I went on my own anyway. It was a delightful. I joined some of my friends afterwards, though, and we ended up sampling a very different kind of Korean entertainment. Since I arrived here, I’ve been meaning to go to a Noraebang – a Korean karaoke room. Last night I went with three friends to try one out.

The others had all done this before but I was a Noraebang novice. This is a little different to the karaoke I’m used to at home. Instead of singing in front of a large (and not very attentive) audience in a crowded bar, each group of people gets a private room. In the room are comfortable couches arranged around a table and TV. On the table are a couple of books with lists of songs and a control console which you use to choose your song. The range of songs is bizarre but there are always some fun ones. Once you’re chosen your song, one or two people pick up the mics and sing their hearts out. Not that you really hear a lot of what they’re singing – volume is permanently turned up rather high and the mics have some sort of built in reverb, so everyone sounds a little like a bad K-pop star. But that’s probably part of the fun. The four of us had a great time. We sang all sorts of things, from Moulin Rouge and Bon Jovi to Mariah Carey and Neil Diamond. In honour of the season, we also included a couple of Christmas numbers. We had a particularly funny moment when Christina found something called ‘The Christmas Song’ by Nat King Cole and we all watched as she put it on, not sure what to expect and then all jumped up at the same time and started singing at the tops of our voices as the words ‘Chestnuts roasting on an open fire’ appeared on the screen. Time really does fly when you’re having fun. After an hour and a half we didn’t even notice passing, we finished off with the almost obligatory ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’. Outside, we said goodnight and I headed home to dream sweet dreams of chestnuts, princes, nutcrackers and sugar plum fairies.

Opera for Lunch

Daegu Opera House 2009 Brunch Opera series
La Rondine (Puccini), 23 November 2009, 11am

There are many ways to deal with Monday mornings. Personally, I usually sleep through them . One of the more unorthodox ways to start the week, however, has to be a trip to the Opera.

Daegu Opera House has for the last few months although I only discovered them recently, been running what they call ‘Brunch Opera’ – small-scale operas performed three times a month at 11am on Monday mornings. The cost is only 10 000 won (roughly R60) without brunch or 15 000 won (R90) with brunch included.

Monday’s opera was La Rondine. By strange coincidence, this is an opera I’ve seen before. In fact, I watched it at the Baxter and it was a UCT/Cape Town Opera performance so there was a lecture before the show, making this the opera that I know probably more about than any other, I was particularly pleased to be able to catch it.

Despite advanced recon to find the Opera House, I hadn’t figured out exactly where to buy tickets but they clearly cater for new-comers. Signs directed me to the ‘ticket-box’. I wasn’t at all sure how to ask for a ticket in Korean, so I smiled pathetically and held out my 10 000 won note. The ticket sales person obviously knew what I meant and, after checking that I wanted just one ticket, offered me a seat using her handy screen stuck up against the hatch, and handed me my ticket.

There is something magically wonderful about having a theatre ticket in your hand. It’s a world of possibility and wonder just waiting to become tangible. One of the favourite things for my mother and me at Fest is buy tickets for the main (and will-definitely-be-sold-out) shows as soon as we arrive and pick up all the ones we’ve pre-booked, so that we can enjoy the anticipation of those wonderful tickets in our hot little hands for days before we get to the performances. This is the first time I’ve been to the theatre in months and months and I’ve missed it a lot, so this ticket felt particularly good.

Another of the magical parts of going to a show is entering an auditorium where the orchestra is tuning up and the house lights are at mid-level and everything is plush and beautiful and luxurious, particularly if the theatre is mostly empty and you can take your time to wander down the aisles and search for your particular seat-number. I was sitting in B191. It appeared on the screen to be roughly in the middle, roughly half-way back. I didn’t realize when I bought it that I’d gotten one of the best seats in the house. Daegu Opera House has a round ground-level audience area, surrounded on three sides by balconies rising four levels to the ceiling. On the ground floor the main sections of seats (A and B) are divided into a large central block with two smaller blocks, one on each side. This extends back to an aisle area, behind which there are more seats (B to C) behind a wooden rail. The last two rows of seats in the front centre block are divided into groups of three, meaning far more space and seats that are easy to reach without having to climb over anyone. I was seated in one of these groups of three seats, right next to the middle gap, directly in line with the centre of the stage. Behind me was the open space of the aisle. The two seats next to me and the one in front of me were empty, so no noisy neighbours and no tall person obscuring my view.

The orchestra finished tuning up, the house lights went down and the opera began. The show as lovely. The good, clear of obviously well-trained voices of professionals rose and fell in the great acoustics of the venue. Costumes and acting were, for the most part, spot on. The set design was particularly interesting – using a minimal props, a screen portraying various images and three large rectangular frames (like oversized door frames) to create the impression of the different settings. Lighting design was very effective – from the imperceptible changes between spots to the fairy-lights on the large frames used to focus the attention on particular parts of the stage, to generate movement despite the small cast  and to create the sensation of distance as Magda walked away at the end of the final act. In terms of performances, it was great to see all the leads acting almost as well as they sang. The one exception was one of the male leads (Ruggero) whose acting was sometimes a little wooden. His voice, however, was so angelical that allowances must be made for any deficiencies in acting. The top performance was probably Magda but I was particularly delighted with the portrayal of her maid, Lisette, which was light and energetic and drew the audience into the story whole-heartedly. Another particularly great feature of this kind of operatic performance is that it’s so often the case, as here, that the performers are clearly having fun, which can make the difference between a good performance and one which truly delights. I do not, unfortunately, have an English cast list but I am on a mission to discover the names of the performers I particularly enjoyed so that I can make sure I see them again.

The Daegu Opera Festival Orchestra was also impressive. The conductor was great and their beautiful music lifted and at times even almost out-shined some of the solos. Timing and tone were excellent and the only possible criticism I could make – and only if I were really searching for something to criticise – would be that there was the distinctive sound of a bow clunking on the floor at one point during the second act.

It was a delightful hour and a half and a great way to start the week – all for only 10 000 won. This is unfortunately the last selection in the 2009 Brunch Opera series, but La Rondine will be performed twice more, on November 30th and December 7th. English speakers planning to attend should ensure that they are familiar with the story as the Opera is sung in Italian and the subtitles are in Korean. Judging by the crowd, advanced booking is probably not necessary, and I certainly didn’t have a problem but several sites recommend it if you would like to have the brunch meal with your Opera. For more information, check out the Daegu Opera House site for contact details. Bon Appetit!

Dalseong Park – a sort of kind of zoo

On Sunday I woke up at about half past 12 (midday). I was lying in bed reading about half an hour later when I got a text from a friend. She was bored. I sent her some ideas of things to do and found myself suddenly drawn to the possibility of a Sunday afternoon adventure, even over the temptation of spending the day in bed. A quick check of the usual internet sources revealed at least two parks in Daegu that I hadn’t yet visited. One, Mangu Park, sounds exciting and historical but the one that caught my attention on Sunday was Dalseong Park, just west of Downtown, and it caught my attention largely because it has a zoo.

I know some people dislike zoos but I’m not one of those hippie-liberal-vegetarian-bunny-hugger types who thinks all zoos are cruel. I think zoos can, and often are, be well-funded, state-of-the-art facilities that play a vital role as sanctuaries for rescued animals and breeding centres, particularly for endangered species. This was, unfortunately, not one of those zoos.

The trip to the park was about as eventful as usual. I caught the #403 bus, which I’d discovered while trying to find the Opera House on Thursday, and then switched over downtown to the #939 bus, overshot the Dalseong Park by two or three stops and ended up backtracking about 7 blocks to get to where I wanted to be. Following the signs to the park, I found myself facing a large, solid building through which, according to a large sign right above me, I was supposed to walk for 300 metres. I ignored the sign and headed around the corner to find the Park.

Dalseong is a Park in that it is an open area with neatly-finished lawns and rows of cabbages in pot-plants – don’t get me started on the cabbages. There are, however, two things that distinguish it and make it more interesting than some of the other parks in the area. The first is the Earthen Wall. Surrounding the park-area, there is a raised area that looks like a naturally-occurring hill except that it is a fairly constant height and forms an almost perfect oval with a circumference of roughly 1300m. It is, in fact, the wall of one of the oldest earthen-mound fortresses in Korea. It is assumed that the first walls were built by the villages of the area in the distant, and now largely forgotten past, and subsequent generations and rulers added to, repaired and improved them. One estimated date of construction is 261AD. On one part of this wall stands the Gwanpungnu Pavilion, which was an important site to the history of the administration of the province and a place used by the governor to look out across Daegu and see what was happening downtown during the later part of the Joseon Dynasty.

All this was fascinating to see and made the historian in my particularly happy. The other reason I’d come to the park was to see the animals. It may seem odd to people who have grown up in cities, and perhaps those who have grown up in countries without many large mammals, but the lack of animal life in Korea has been nawing at me. This is one of the reasons I wanted to go to this zoo, which the internet told me had all sorts of animals from elephants to fur seals. I hoped they would be African elephants.

As it turned out, I didn’t see the elephants at all. I must have arrived close to feeding time because all the large animals were agitated – at least I hope that is why – and by the time I reached the elephants’ enclosure, they were nowhere to be seen and the door was closed, I assume for feeding. The same happened with the lions. And the fur seal enclosure had been taken over by a gaggle of white geese. I did see plenty of other animals, though.

The zoo has an odd mixture of creatures. There are lots of birds, including peacocks (blue and white – which I didn’t know existed), pheasants, waterbirds like ducks, ostriches, what looked like some turkeys and a few birds of prey. I felt a bit sorry for the birds of prey because their cages didn’t seem very big. They were beautiful, though, particularly the owls and the vultures.

In a large enclosure with a mossy, empty moat around it, two beautiful Bengal tigers paced and roamed, clearly waiting for something. They really are beautiful, powerful animals. Strange how I often forget how much more fierce and unfriendly their faces are than those of lions. There was also a very lonely and not-particularly-happy looking brown bear, pacing around in circles, all by himself in another large enclosure. He was rather good looking, too.

Near the entrance there were llamas. One of them – a large brown llama was in a pen with a whole bunch of other deer. Another – a pale tan-coloured, slightly smaller animal – was in a separate pen on the other side of the fence. At first, I didn’t even notice the second one. After watching for a bit, however, it became clear that the reason I hadn’t noticed it was because it had been busy trying to find a way to get under the fence at the far side of the pen. Once it gave that up, it raced to find the brown one and the two of them rushed up and down the fence on opposite sides, trying to get through. Amorous llamas.

Although the bear looked a little miserable and the llamas would clearly have been happier on the same side of the fence, I think all of these animals were probably okay. Or at least, far, far better off than some of the others. In front of a glassed-in (perspex-ed-in?) cage the size of a large room, with a few branches and bits of rope, was a sign indicating that this was the chimpanzee enclosure. I couldn’t help thinking of the huge chimp enclosure at Monkey Town in Somerset West. Perhaps I am just more sensitive to big apes, having grown up in Africa, but that enclosure made me feel genuinely miserable. I didn’t actually see a chimp, so maybe it is mercifully empty. As I said, some of the other animals looked fine but things like this make me wish that someone would close the place down. The zebras were also penned into a rather small area. When I close my eyes, I can picture zebra running across the veld. It was strange and a little unsettling to see them in so small a space, although the two of them seemed perfectly active and interacted with many of the people who walked by.
Not very far away was a sight that made me even more angry and sad and definitely makes me think that this ‘zoo’ should be closed down. In a tiny, glassed-in cage, about the size of a single university res room, pacing up and down in what looked like anguish, was a beautiful big cat which I initially thought was a leopard but the information board informed me was an amazon jaguar. It was exquisite: thick, rich fur, huge feet, wide eyes. It paced backwards and forwards in this tiny space, muscles taught, eyes searching and my heart went out to it. I wanted to stand there and watch it all day or find a way to free it, or simply talk to it, get its attention. A few cages along were two timber wolves, the larger also pacing backwards and forwards. I hope that what was actually going on was that they were about to be fed, and not that this pacing is what they do all day long. Either way, the cages these beautiful animals were in were way, way too small. It’s hard to imagine a country where people don’t object to this kind of thing. It’s not even as if the motive is minimizing costs in order to increase profit – the zoo and park are free and open to the public.

The conditions in which the jaguar, wolves and possibly chimps were kept marred my experience of Dalseong park. My feeling is that someone should do something to limit the number of animals they can keep so that each is able to live in appropriate surroundings. The rest of the park was interesting and it was great to see animals, but I wish they didn’t feel the need to spoil it by doing things like that.